Island Hopping: The Glory Of Eating Through Brooklyn’s Little Caribbean—On Labor Day And Every Day
Eastern Parkway’s West Indian Day Parade on Labor Day is a testament to the indelible contributions of the Caribbean diaspora to American food, culture and society—and the perfect time to eat your way through the West Indies.
By Shelley Worrell
Last updated 31 Aug, 2024
Growing up in Flatbush, Brooklyn meant summers were filled with backyard fetes, panyard limes, and traversing down the Nostrand, Utica, Flatbush and Church Avenues that make up Little Caribbean. And while many opt to leave town for Labor Day—the last long summer weekend—the Caribbean diaspora gathers on Eastern Parkway for the annual West Indian American Day Parade, now in its 57th year.
This time of year, Caribbean flags hang pridefully from fire escapes, rearview mirrors, and car hoods. We wear these colors as accessories wrapped around our hair and tied at our necks, a symbol of our immigrant status, a nod to our shared cultural heritage and our Caribpolitan identity that connects our ancestral homelands and our lives in metropolitan communities. Some of my fondest neighborhood memories remain jumping up at Hawks, Borokeete and Volume II with my cousins, and playing J’ouvert til the sun came up, an annual rite of passage with visceral connections to emancipation and freedom.
This was once the largest parade in North America to witness the artistry brought to the States by Caribbean immigrants, where revelers would jump, chip, and breakaway to the pulsating rhythms of soca, dancehall, kompas, and rhythm. But in recent years, gentrification and real estate development have threatened the existence of this kind of cultural preservation. Band leaders, pansides, and cultural producers often struggle to find affordable space in Flatbush, East Flatbush, and Crown Heights. It’s required people to get more resourceful, often working out of alternative spaces like school yards and private residences. And so we are compelled to write letters appealing to neighbors to not call the police on the culture as we prepare for a weekend of competitions and festivities culminating on Empire Boulevard and Eastern Parkway.
The weekend leading up to the West Indian Labor Day Parade, we gather in the parking lot nestled between the Brooklyn Museum and Brooklyn Botanic Garden as it transforms into a stage for Kiddies Carnival, Panorama, and Soca Fest and a purveyor of sounds from back home—Trinidad, Grenada, St. Vincent, Haiti, Jamaica, Dominica, Guyana, St. Lucia and others.
As a longtime masquerader and three-time band leader myself, Labor Day is more than a parade for me. It is a testament to the indelible contributions of the Caribbean diaspora to American food, culture, and society. From Shirley Chisholm to Jean Michel Basquiat to Alexander Hamilton to Malcolm X to the architects of NYC Carnival, Jessie Wadell and Carlos Lezama, and scores of others, our mark on New York City is evident and palpable.
It’s also a foodie’s heaven. Undoubtedly, the best time of year to island hop in Brooklyn’s Little Caribbean is during the West Indian Day Parade, where you will be met by tanties slinging their very best oxtail, fried bakes, homemade jerk (the kind with the secret family recipe) and beverages from sorrel to ginger beer to mauby to quench your thirst. Lines at community institutions like Allan’s, Peppas, and Labay Market stretch down the block while flags wave proudly above.
Here’s a roundup of some of my meal picks from Crown Heights to Flatbush where you will find some of the best Caribbean food in the Americas.
Undeniably, one of the most beloved community institutions is Allan’s Bakery, a third-generation, family-owned bakery on the corner of Nostrand and Maple. Be prepared to stand in line but while you do, buss ah wine or catch the latest fete fliers and community news. When you go, pick up currant rolls, hardough bread or coconut drops. Allan Bakery is bookended by their newish Cafe & Bar complete with a curated cocktail, food menu, and DJ lineup that is sure to keep you entertained well into the night.
Known for their viral bbq pop-up series, Picky on the Pavement, and delicious oxtail mashups at Smorgasburg, Ariapita is a must-visit for anyone who is looking for Trinbago rum shop vibes in New York. Here, go for the oxtail pelau, geera wings and mauby sour.
For an elevated dining experience centering plant-based Caribbean inspired cuisine, come to Aunts et Uncles where you can people watch on Nostrand or, if you’re lucky, relax on the couch or at the bar while indulging in fish cakes, lobster rolls, or a smothered chicken sandwich that are all seasoned to perfection. Don’t forget the peppa sauce!
Who doesn’t love plantain? But we love it more when it’s in a perfect sandwich filled with escovitch, griot, or mushrooms. Bun Nan serves up delicious and innovative Haitian/Caribbean plantain dishes that includes sweet plantain waffles, plantain boats, and nachos.
Voted best oxtail for two consecutive years at the Best of Little Caribbean Awards, Caribbean Vibes is a must if you want yard food. With dozens of Jamaican classics, from ackee & saltfish to curry goat, and sides that include Caribbean mac & cheese, rice & peas, ground provisions, plantain and gravy, Caribbean Vibes never disappoints.
Doubles and roti, more specifically the goat buss up with pumpkin and bhagee at De Hot Pot, are a must. When you go, be prepared for a Caribbean food experience complete with hand written signs with prompts and questions not to ask. The line is typically long and out the door, so be prepared to wait and don’t forget to walk with cash.
The Deia is Little Caribbean’s new hotspot complete with a backyard, a stellar DJ lineup, a cocktail menu that will make you swoon and delicious bar food to boot. The owners are usually around to make you feel extra special, so be sure to say Sak Pase!
One of the only licensed street food vendors in Little Caribbean is Jimbo Jerk, which was also ranked second place for Best Jerk in the Best of Little Caribbean Awards. With roots in Cuba and Haiti, Jimbo has customers who drive all the way from the Bronx for his fall-off-the-bone jerk that’s marinated to perfection with his very own signature Jerk marinade.
For a breakfast of champions, head to Lips for their Bake & Saltfish. This St Vincent-owned community cafe, run by mother-son duo, Jamane and Donna, is a cafe by day and event space by evening. This is the place to bring your laptop and catch ah vibe.
Head to The Rum Bar on Mondays for Monday Sucks, a series hosted by Brooklyn tastemaker, Oliver Luke. At The Rum Bar, you’ll find bites that transport you to a Caribbean beach and handcrafted cocktails with an emphasis on—you guessed it—rum. It's all powered by owner Garnett Phillip, who is affectionately known as The Rum Girl.
