7 HBCU Alums On How Food Shaped Their College Experience
"The HBCU food culture is a smorgasbord of heritage and pride."
By EatOkra
updated on 07 Nov, 2024
HBCU pride runs deep. Ask any alum across the more than 100 Historically Black Colleges and Universities and they'll give you a unique reason for why attending their respective school shaped who they are today.
Luke Lawal, founder of HBCU Buzz, can't talk about his time at Bowie State University without talking about the meal memories. "Food is at the heart of that experience," he tells EatOkra—and he's not alone in that sentiment.
To help celebrate the richness of HBCU homecoming culture and the legacy that exists far beyond this season, we asked Lawal and six other alums to share the core food moments that not only impacted their time on campus, but also their post-college trajectories.
David Castro
Founder of Dungeon Forward
Alma Mater: Florida A&M University
"HBCU food culture is the root of many core memories that stick with you for years. My college experience at Florida A&M University included a hybrid of stalking the café for the meals included in my meal plan and sliding a few things in my pocket zip-lock (especially on Fried Chicken Wednesday) for later when I would be stuck at the architecture building, always knowing where the free food was (even if you had to donate blood, or sign up for a horrible credit card to get it), and navigating the few restaurants that I could afford. For many, it was where we’d learn our way around the kitchen for the first time after moving off campus. The culture that surrounded us had a significant impact on the food we would eventually grow to prepare for ourselves."
Check out Castro's Tallahassee Black-Owned Restaurant Guide
Michelle Wallace
Owner of B'tween Sandwich Co.
Alma Mater: Texas Southern University
"As time has pushed forward, HBCU tailgating has been able to pull some inspiration from the mainstream restaurant/hospitality industry. Food is the heartbeat of the HBCU tailgate and the pitmasters and cooks of these events take it very seriously. I’m loving to see some of the grill masters and cooks play around with favors more. We are expanding our comfort zones to include other cultural flavors and influences. I’ve seen foods such as Asian-style BBQ sauce, African flavors including Suya-spiced meats, Mexican-style street tacos, and even lamb chops being served at tailgates now. I think that it's incredible and I'm looking forward to the continued evolution of HBCU tailgating foods."
Tiffaine Stephens
Brand Leader at Pepsi Dig In
Alma Mater: Howard University
"When I think of HBCU food culture, I think of comfort. College can be daunting, but what makes the HBCU experience so special is that you can create a home away from home. The food plays such an important role in the creation of said home. At Howard, we had Soul Food Thursdays in the Blackburn Cafeteria, and I remember that being something that my friends and I looked forward to during our freshman year. There was joy in having that routine of communion and fellowship over foods that might remind us of home, or, in my case, teach me something new. I think of multiculturalism. I think about restaurants like Oohh's & Aahh's, Sankofa, and Howard Deli (recently closed) as food staples in DC and for Howard University. Oohh's & Aahh's, in particular, was one of my many introductions to American soul food—a cuisine type I didn’t grow up eating often due to my Guyanese heritage. At Howard, we had the privilege of being surrounded by Ethiopian, Caribbean, and American cuisine—the make-up of DC significantly impacted the type of food we considered 'ours'."
Luke Lawal
Founder and CEO of HBCU Buzz
Alma Mater: Bowie State University
"When I think of HBCU food culture, I immediately think of a vibrant blend of tradition, community, and creativity. It's about the soul food that brings people together; it’s an integral part of the social experience. The local restaurants near HBCUs provide the soul food that resonates with the cultural heritage of the students and alumni. This is crucial to creating a sense of belonging and pride. Many HBCUs partner with local eateries to host events, providing students with opportunities to engage with the community while enjoying familiar flavors. These partnerships also support Black-owned businesses, reinforcing the importance of economic empowerment within our communities. I always looked forward to homecoming tailgate where we showcased dishes from local Black-owned restaurants. It was more than just great food; it sparked conversations about our childhood meals and traditions."
Check out Luke's D.C. Black-Owned Restaurant Guide
DJ Heat
Washington Mystics/Washington Wizards DJ
Alma Mater: Morgan State University
"When I think of HBCU food culture, I think of Fried Fish Fridays. It’s just that one thing you always look forward to. I remember one of my first jobs in college was working for the Black-owned Thompson Hospitality, they handled catering on Morgan's campus. We all go through being the broke college student but I lucked out working in catering, because of all the leftover food. I also think us [HBCU alums]—like the smoothie shop Spizzy owned by some fellow Morgan State alums and Jerk At Nite, which just opened up a Baltimore location—are feeding the current and next generations of HBCU students and showing that we have the spirit to be business owners and support one another."
JaMor Johnson
Creative producer, Hospitality advocate & Co-founder of Jerk At Nite
Alma Mater: Howard University
"HBCU food culture is a smorgasbord of heritage and pride. I came to Howard University from Louisville, Kentucky, with a dull connection to food foreign to my momma's kitchen! I knew good soul food, but I was inexperienced with food from the Caribbean, Africa, and even other parts of America. Let's just say I eventually went on to graduate from Howard with a way better connection to the diaspora of Black soul food. My freshman and sophomore year, I was a part of the operations department for Howard Homecoming. I learned first hand about the hospitality that is provided for VIP guests. It's all in the details! From the catering to the concierge, the guest experience was top tier. RIP Kevin Reed. And shoutout to the student leaders, they were really important figures in helping to define what Homecoming was during that period of time!"
Jamila Wright
Co-founder of Brooklyn Tea
Alma Mater: Spelman College
“When I think of HBCU food culture, I think of Fried Chicken Wednesdays, which I thought was exclusive to my school but then I found out it was a widespread HBCU experience. Then, there is fried fish from an OG tent at Homecoming and I definitely think of the consistently bomb grilled chicken at the Que tent. At an HBCU, food becomes an extension of our care for each other. Whether it’s your favorite cafeteria lady letting you sneak in when you forgot your Student ID or it’s someone from an older class sneaking you food and drink from their Homecoming reunion tent, it’s all an expression of love."
